Brovia, Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, 2013 Clusel Roch 2021 2nd prereceive Emilio Moro’s Malleolus Valderramiro 2020

Emilio Moro’s Malleolus Valderramiro 2020 is a stunning tribute to the high-elevation vineyards of Ribera del Duero

an earthy sous-bois undertow

or after dinner on its own

which is exactly why this is a steal: a crisp

Brovia, Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, 2013 Clusel Roch 2021 2nd prereceive Emilio Moro’s Malleolus Valderramiro 20202013 cool, late ripening, high in acid is exactly the sort of classical vintage that plays to this cru's strengths: perfume and tension rather than weight. Brovia farms some of Castiglione Falletto's best sites, and Rocche di Castiglione is one of the Barolo zone's most celebrated crus, a long, steep, limestone rich slope facing southeast that yields wine of perfume and finesse rather than brute power. Brovia's style here weds generous fruit to that